For the past few months the mood around our house was really heavy.  Heavy with the loss of Belo, our work demands and we kept the last 3 from Zena’s litter which meant training puppies.  In the midst of work, training, and grieving, we learn my Jeep’s visa was about to expire.  This means we must drive the Jeep out of the country and then back into Argentina to renew its visa.

Because Cordoba is pretty much in the middle of the country, we could go East or West to leave the country. The pups never saw snow so I thought it would be great if we drove through the Andes and spend a day in Chile.

Off we go!  We pile the pups into the Jeep,  and pack for an over night stay in Chile.  We have a farm in another province called San Luis. Our plan was to start at our farm in San Luis 9 am travel through Mendoza and over the Andes which should get us into Chile my early evening.  Then we would find a short-term rental home or motel that accepted dogs and stay for the night to enjoy Chile’s beaches the next day. Since we were driving through Mendoza to get to the Andes, we we also planned pick up some wine and have a romantic evening in Chile with the dogs.  This was the extent of our planning.  We could have done some research and mapped out our trip but where is the fun in planning?

True to our habits, we didn’t get on the road until 3pm.  We made a few stops to get gas, check tires etc. before we knew it lunchtime was approaching. By the time we had lunch etc., it was 3.  With a late start, we cruised through Mendoza without stopping for wine.

The sun was setting as we drove through the main part of the Andes.  It was a beautiful display of pink and purple water colors streaming through the open sky embracing the snow kissed peaks. We couldn’t stop to appreciate the sights because the border closes at 8. We had two hours to get to there. The roads through the Andes are narrow, curve often, and used heavily by slow-moving trucks making our race to the border intensely stressful.

With 10 minutes to spare, we reached the border or so we thought. It was a resting area for the trucks who didn’t make it in time to cross and were waiting for the next day. Rodrigo chatted with the border patrol until he let us through on one condition for us to “pisalo” in English “put the pedal to the medal” because the actual crossing is a half hour drive up the winding road and we had now 5 minutes. I laughed thinking how strange the police not only told us to speed but on dangerous road.
We roll into the border crossing. I assume the guy Rodrigo chatted with must have called them to stay open because we were late to the closing. The border looked like something from a murder suspense movie, like Whiteout, a big warehouse in the middle of a barren mass of land and mountains covered in ice and old dry snow. We were the last to arrive. We couldn’t have asked for a more ideal situation. There are a series of windows we had to pass, the Argentine windows checking out ourselves then another for our car then check into Chile once again ourselves then our car. Since we were the last ones to arrive, we could get our papers stamped and slide right over to the next window.  We left the dogs in the car while we side stepped from window to window.

The next step showing the dogs’ passports to the Chilean agricultural police. Many of the border people were hanging around our car waiting for us to leave so they could go home. Fortunately our pups are adorable, everyone wanted to play with them to pass the time tapping our windows and sticking their hand inside to pet our babies. We returned to the car and noticed in the short time of processing our paperwork, the dogs found our food. No more snacks or dog food for the night. The border people helped me with walking the dogs while Rodrigo dealt with the papers for the dogs and we were almost ready to go. I have to admit, during the whole trip to this border I worried that Chile would not allow our dogs into their country even though we had all the correct documents.  I heard so many “horror” stories of dogs traveling with their owners only to be quarantined for having the wrong documents.  The whole ride up the mountains I had visions of me sleeping in a kennel with my dogs because I refused to leave them alone. I would have done it too.

The bathrooms for humans at the border seemed to be a quarter-mile away from the main building. Surprisingly, they were impeccably clean. The issue with them is the eerie murder suspense vibe of the whole area. After drinking mate for the whole ride, I had to get past that voice in my head saying “don’t go there” yelling as if I was watching a movie where someone was about to be killed.

No murders hiding, I was able to go and safely run back to the car. Now officially in Chile we start our journey down the mountain. Pitch black and FREEZING -4 C we found a spot to stop and enjoy the moment. We stood outside, holding tight onto the dogs leashes as we gazed at what seemed like every star in the universe. The air was dry. It was completely silent no wind, no crickets, and no strange animal noises. Our dogs didn’t even bark. I guess they were taking in the breath-taking emotion and beauty of the moment as were Rodrigo and I. The road we were on was about a few miles below the peak which allowed us to truly sense how small we are compared to the massive natural beauty. The moon and the stars were the only means of illumination. The peaks of the Andes were dark purple cutting through the star-studded black sky. If it wasn’t so cold I would have suggested to stay there for the night. However, Rodrigo had other plans. He knew if we didn’t drive to the beach now we would never get there the next day. We took once last deep breath of the near 100% pure air and jumped back into the Jeep that stunk of dog food and treats and that staleness of a road trip.

Los Caracole Pass translated means snail pass. It is a series of hairpin turns with no road barrier. One false move and you are plummeting down to the valley below. It is considered one of the deadliest roads in the world. The drive down the mountain was also impressively breath-taking. Aside from the danger of falling to our deaths if we hit one patch of ice or bump or swerve in the slightest, there were trucks traveling up the mountain. Those trucks made it a tight squeeze on the road.  I was also worried about Rodrigo, had a long day of driving. He loves driving especially long drives but I was concerned about him being exhausted.

Once we made to the foothills we both spoke up almost simultaneously, we forgot to exchange money. It was 10 pm by this time. Many years ago we stopped keeping credit cards; the theory if we don’t have cash to pay, we don’t need it. This moment was the first time I wished we kept one. My ATM won’t work internationally unless I call the company to let them know where I’ll be. I forgot to call. I called them anyway. I told the how I had to run to Chile unexpectedly and will need to use it tonight. The “customer service” lady wasn’t having my situation and said she can’t process the request until the next day.  Anyway always resourceful, Rodrigo managed to sweet talk his way through the first toll booth without paying. The second toll Rodrigo couldn’t get a free pass but was able to pay in Argentine pesos at a decent rate. However the third, fourth and fifth booth seemed to charge a worse rate then the last. This infuriated Rodrigo. He hates to be taken advantage of and clearly we were. The last lady after agreeing to take Chilean peso actually stated they can’t be wrinkled or torn and rejected our pesos.  We had to dig around for “perfect pesos”.  In certain situations living down here I often wish I had a better grasp of the language because if I did, I could have said “who the F do you think you are? Money is money – not torn or wrinkled” I know how to say something similar in Spanish but I don’t out of respect for Rodrigo and the fear of getting us in trouble.

We finally arrived at the shore, the 4th largest city in Chile, Vina del Mar. It is midnight. No one was on the streets there was nothing open and since the dogs ate our food, Rodrigo was starving. I past hunger miles ago to point where I was too hungry to be hungry. I just wanted to sleep. We found a gas station with a mini coffee shop. Rodrigo went in to get a danish or something. I tried to sleep. Suddenly this ghost town sprang to life and everyone seemed to be parking right next to our car. The pups being in a strange place were hyper protective and going nuts at every person walking by. No sleep for me.

Now, the original plan was to find a place that would accept dogs and stay there for the night.  Unfortunately it was too late and we were too tired to go from motel to motel asking.  We foolishly decided to sleep in the Jeep.  After driving around we found a small parking lot for what appeared to be a tourist spot and according to the sign a place to run to if there was a tsunami.  Rodrigo didn’t have a good feeling about the location but I pointed out that there was a statue of the Virgin so we should be protected.  With minimal barking from the dogs, I was able to catch about 1/2 hour of sleep.  Suddenly Rodrigo turned on the car and skid out of the parking lot.  I saw behind us 3 motorcycles.  It seemed, Flora woke up Rodrigo to announce an apparent danger, three bikers cruising into the parking lot and surrounding our car.

We found another beach parking lot which seemed to have other “homeless” drivers.  We stayed there and slept for a few hours.  We woke to rush hour traffic and rain.  However, the sight of the beach was uplifting allowing us to forget that we were exhausted.

Being from New England, I must say I took the ocean for granted.  Where we live in Argentina ocean beaches are not nearly as accessible.  Something about the ocean fills me with an inner peace like I am home.  Zena is also a beach girl. Her first 10 months she enjoyed running around Cyprus.I saw the same peace I had in her eyes as she took in the moment.  I think the both of us couldn’t have been more happy even if it meant standing in the freezing rain to enjoy the sweet smell of salt water air.  The puppies on the other hand never saw an ocean, they freaked out.  Running towards the waves and then tucking their tails as they ran away when the waves reached the shore.  We needed this. Rodrigo and I always took Belafonte on excursions and saw new things.  This was the first journey without Belo.  We were making memories with a new pack.

We had enough adventures during this journey so we hit a Starbuck’s for breakfast going with what we knew instead of taking a chance on truly bad coffee.  We fed the dogs blueberry scones and ethos water.  I know bad diet but if they were to be traveling with us more often they would have to get used to eating road food.

Many years ago, Rodrigo visited a nearby town called Concon.    Seriously, if anyone is looking for a laid back, surfer vibe beach vacation, this is the place.  The beaches are beautiful, with rocks and fine sand.  What makes the location exceptional is the view of the Andes peaks in the horizon.  The people there seem to be bohemian types and very cool.  Again we took to the beach with the puppies.

Since it was winter, no one was on the beach.  It was great for the dogs because they could run and run and run.  They had such a great time especially after the day before where they were stuck in the car with us for 10 hours.  We couldn’t help but think about how Belafonte would have totally had a blast chasing after birds and digging holes in the sand.  While playing with the dogs, I didn’t realize how high the tide was rolling into the shore.  A big wave crashed into me and flooded my waterproof winter boots.  I didn’t pack any other shoes so I was stuck with wet feet.

Unshowered for two days, wet feet, and exhausted Rodrigo and I decided to have a nice lunch.  We chose a restaurant, Nikko, on the beach and our car parked right out front.  I did my best to look presentable and not like the homeless person I felt I looked like.  The temps were cool enough to leave the pups in the car with the windows open enough for them to enjoy the cool sea breeze without jumping out of the car.    Nervous parents that we are we checked on the pups like every 15 minutes often time bringing a little food for them.  I must say Nikko was a great restaurant with yummy ceviche.  The dogs loved it too. We bought a few dishes to go for them.  It was so good I was compelled to write a review.

With our bellies full, we embarked on our journey back to Argentina.  We knew the border closed at 8 and we wanted to make sure there was enough time to get there without the rush we incurred on the way over.  Cruising back was easy until we got near the border crossing.  There was a long line of cars and a road blockade.  The Andes was closed due to cold icy conditions.  There must have been about 20 cars and another 20 trucks just sitting in line waiting for the road to be open.  It was clear we all would have to wait until the next day to cross.  Along this road were little restaurants, and trucker motels all designed to look like quaint log cabins in the woods.  Most of the people in line were planning on sleeping in their cars with piles and piles of blankets.  As with most roadside restaurants, gas stations, etc. there are a sad amount of stray dogs.  Stray dogs always seem to know that we have a car full of dogs and will surround our car barking at us while our dogs bark back at them.  It was clear there was no way we would get any sleep in our car with the dogs barking like this.

Once again Rodrigo saved the day.  He found cabins for rent and cheap the catch was there was no heat or hot water.  Before we agreed to stay there, I check the beds for bugs and approved the place.  The cabin had three bed rooms each with two bunk beds and a large room with a kitchen table and a broken TV.  The two bathrooms were well let’s just say I’d rather “go” outside.  Worried that the motel management would not allow our dogs to stay in the cabin, we snuck in the dogs.  They were oddly quiet as if they knew they had to be quiet.  They immediately jumped onto one of the beds and huddled together.  I pulled the blankets from the other beds and piled some on them and some on our bed.  For warmth, Rodrigo and I slept together on the bottom bunk, a twin bed mind you.  Seriously it was FREEZING!!!  I’ve been to Moscow in January and I can honestly say without exaggeration, I’ve never experienced cold like this ever.

Outside you could hear the stray dogs.  It really made me sad.  What was saddest was one dog who you could hear running to one area barking a few times and then moving off to another location and barking a few times more as if he was calling for someone.  It broke my heart.  Our pups raised their heads a few times almost as if they knew.  They didn’t bark but just stared out the window while deep under their blankets.  These are the times I wish I lived on big ranch with tons of money so I could save all these dogs.  In one way it is good I have 4 dogs.  They prevent me from becoming a dog hoarder.

Morning, sort of! We snuck out before dawn broke to hopefully cross the Andes and before the motel manager saw we had dogs. We approached the blockade to the Andes.  There even more cars parked alongside the road. Cluelessly we drove right past them and pulled up second in line.  Suddenly there were like 5-7 people knocking on our window somewhat politely telling us we just cut a buttload of people who have been in line to cross.  Rodrigo drove to the back of the line in reverse while the stray dogs ran around our car and our dogs frantically barked back at the strays letting out all the barks they held in the night before.

About 40 minutes later, the road was opened.  Everyone rushed up to the border, people passing slower cars on a two-way road, not a highway but a winding road that is one of the 10 most dangerous roads in the world.  I wish stupidity was a crime.  Anyway, we get to the border control.  This place is different from the one we drove through two days ago.  The building still had that warehouse design but this time everyone was to drive up to a booth deal with whatever paperwork and then drive to the next booth and deal with whatever bureaucratic stamp needed to be stamped.  While waiting for paper processing the kind border control people were playing Led Zepplin’s greatest hits.  As Rodrigo worked his magic joking with the government workers and explaining our situation, I swayed back and forth singing all the words to the Led Zep songs.  The dogs’ papers were checked, whew! And now off to deal with our car.  Because was not a resident of Argentina but a visitor, the Jeep I brought down is also a visitor.  We both have a certain amount of days we can be in Argentina then we must leave or be illegal.  When met with the importation people, aduana, they were not convinced our car is merely just visiting as we claimed.  After 10 minutes of Rodrigo explaining in his best lawyer ways, about 5 aduana people gathered around to discuss review the documents and discuss again.  Stairway to Heaven was playing.  I couldn’t believe it but I knew all the words and mouthed them because singing would have been nerve racking for Rodrigo.  We were asked to pull our car over and speak with the Director of the Aduana.  They allowed me to take the dogs out of the car and give them a walk.  One of the aduana dudes helped me walk them.  This was the first time the puppies saw snow.  I was greatly disappointed that they were not as excited as I hoped.  After a long time of Rodrigo making friends with the Director we were free to go.

After 15 minutes of driving away from the border control, Rodrigo confessed that he was stressed about this crossing the whole time we took this journey because the aduana could have confiscated our car!  After a sigh of relief, we filled our thermos with hot water from a nearby restaurant that wasn’t open for business yet and made instant coffee.  Driving through the Andes in the daylight was beyond words.  The sun was bright in the sky and every mile was breathtaking.  I wanted to let the dogs out and run through the mountains but my fear that they wouldn’t return or run onto the highway was far greater than the desire to see them have fun.

We did take them out for a few photos.

Almost noon, we were approaching Mendoza.  Naturally we had to stop by our few favorite bodegas and say hello.  We made the very out of the way voyage to our all time favorite, Finca el Zorzal de Lopez Lopez.  The owner Manuel has always been great to us.  We first met him when we tried to export wines back in 2003.  Manuel invited us in to taste some of his wines that were in the tanks ready to be bottled.  Rodrigo and I were so hungry our growling stomachs were audible.  Manuel only had a package of saltines which paired very well with his incredible wines.  Once again the pups were able to see something new, a vineyard.  Manuel a dog lover let them run around a bit while we caught up on many years of our lives.  Before we knew it, time passed quickly.  We had to get back on the road again.  Up until now the pups were incredibly good in the car.  They took it in stride.  However it seemed being cooped up for this long journey was getting on their nerves.  They had less space in the back because of the cases and cases of wine we brought.  And, apparently they were getting on each other’s nerves.  There was some bickering.  I had to separate them all each taking a corner of the Jeep.  We arrived back to the farm just after sun down.

We had a great time with memories we will never forget.  After losing Belo all I could think of was the memories we made with him.  Belo forced me and Rodrigo to go out and see things experience life in a different way.  Before him, we watched a ton of TV, vacationed in hotels took in a few sites but that was it.  He got us outside, staying in places where we saw the country side, immersing ourselves in the world outside.  Now we have his children and soul mate to run with and do the same.  After all, we all don’t have much time on this earth, we might as well take adventures so the ones we leave behind can think about the good times we spent together.